All forks lead to Forks

Posted in Uncategorized on April 21, 2010 by steelydoc

To Northwest steelhead fisherman, the town of Forks is quickly becoming the last bastion for large, aggressive, wild steelhead.  With the premature closure of the Skagit and Sauk fisheries this year, all eyes have turned to Forks with its strategic location on the Quillayute prairie. Hmm, prairies seem to be a theme in my present stage of life. Compared to the beauty of the Camas prairie in Idaho, the Quillayute prairie would be like her tramp-stamped, emophile, dark-minded, millennial generation, younger sister. Okay, that might be a little harsh, but the splendor of the place gets leached away by the persistent gloomy weather, rain, and lack of unfiltered light.  I experienced this affect during my numerous days spent fishing the rivers that give Forks its name.

Lisa fishing one of the famous "Forks" of the Quillayute River

Forks earned its name by virtue of its proximity to the three forks of the Quillayute River: the Bogachiel, Calawah, and Sol Duc rivers.  In total, I made three pilgrimages to Forks in search of the chrome beasts that fin in  its nearby rivers.  The first trip was more reconnaissance than just fishing. Staying with my friends Jim and Pam from Montana, we trudged across numerous gravel bars on the Hoh and Queets river in search of new runs and verifying the existence of old ones. One thing about fishing the rivers out there is their tendency to change dramatically each year. The spot you loved last year is often high and dry, with the new channel a 1/2 mile away.  So that is what we did. Fish were found, many were lost, and few came to hand. At the end of this trip Lisa found success on the lower and hooked her first winter steelhead on the lower Hoh. My second trip out came the third week of March with Lisa in the navigator/nap seat in the Steelhead mobile. We came out a few days early to fish some new runs in preparation for our group of friends who were heading out for the coming weekend. Everybody in the group (Whitney, Dan, Christiana, Jaime, Kym, Konrad, Tyler, Brett, and his pal) arrived safely and we hit the Hoh with high hopes. Despite fishing some beautiful water, only one fish was hooked, by the up and coming steelhead lady fisher, Lisa. From her description, it was a big one. Bummer, the big ones nearly always get away. Lisa, Tyler, and I undertook the third and final adventure. We headed over the last weekend for fishing the Hoh and Queets River. We gambled on the river levels, but it paid off huge: we hooked an insane 8 fish in only 6 hours of fishing.  Tyler hooked a jumbo, Lisa had a couple that broke her off, and one that was a perfect chromer, and I battled my first 20lb + buck (male steelhead) that bettered me after 20 minutes and 600 ft of line.  So as you can tell, I am trying to sum up an amazing and often soaking wet time all up in a paragraph. Sorry, I am tired and have anatomy homework to finish. There is much more to relate about this funky place and I plan to dissect it in greater detail in the future. For now, let the photos do the rest of the talking. Oh, and if you love Twilight…go to Forks, there are three stores, multiple tour buses, and all sorts of souvenirs that await you.

Tyler's mondo hen, she measured 34x14

Well done sir!

Lisa's perfect chromer, no net scars, translucent fins, ah..fish worship.

Scouting some promising water and hydrating.

Launching a double spey cast

A hard earned Queets fish, glorious weather too

Same run, better weather.

Most of the amigos, after we had quit fishing and started clamming

Lisa succefully tailed this one

Until next year Forks!

Just say no to vampires,

–AS

Away on Special Assignment

Posted in Uncategorized on April 3, 2010 by steelydoc

The Cottonwood Beat editor and chief has relocated to the Seattle borough of West Seattle on special assignment. In an effort to clear up cultural misunderstandings, I will be reporting on the habitats, attitudes, and habitudes  of  Western Washingtonites for the edification of my Eastside brothers and sisters (learning the local lingo already). In the process of relocation, I have allowed the frequency of this publication to slip.  To all my readers, I will work on updating this trusted source of news more frequently. Over the next 6 months I will be embedded in the Emerald Zone, reporting on my experiences, observations, and interactions with local residents. My first assignment is the Washington Coast and its world famous wild steelhead runs. I heard a local tip that there are some funny things going on out there…something about low vitamin D levels and pale-skinned teenagers driving recklessly with their eyes off the road, looking for vampires or some hogwash like that. Well, I hope I piqued your interest. More on that in the next post.

Welcome to the twilight clear-cut

With my turtleneck and waders, I’m off,

–AS

Out to lunch

Posted in Uncategorized on February 25, 2010 by steelydoc

Skipped lunch to fish the clearwater with fishing pal Jim Harris

Man I have been out to lunch with my blog and now have to play catch up writing about all the things that have happened these past weeks. This last weekend proved to be a great one, as the one before did as well. You know what they often say, “A picture is worth..” you know. Thank you Jim for snapping this quick shot of the best steelie I have landed in my life.  Literally caught on our lunch break from the Kelly Creek Fly Casters Expo in Clarkston, WA.  Jim and I decided that we had enough time to rush to our rooms, grab our fly rods, and head for “the” run.  This run has been a producer, more consistent than Steve Jobs.  In fact, I have hooked fish there 5 out of 6 days fishing it. The last time I fished it was with my lovely girlfriend, who flew out for Valentine’s weekend. That Friday I hooked a 32 incher while I waited for her plane to land. And on Sunday I fought and lost the biggest fish yet. After taking me deep into my backing I battled it back up the run and got it within 5 feet of the bank, its huge tail sliced the surface of the water and was so far back from the nose that it appeared detached. As best Lisa and I could tell that wild fish was well into the upper 30′s or low 40′s in length. Just then the hook pulled free and my chrome whale swam away. That’s steelheading eh, damn! Lisa also got a good grab after that but nothing stuck to the hook, another bummer. So back to the lunch steelie. I found that beast well out in the deep chop fishing with t-14 and a weighted intruder.  That fish was so powerful, it just swam downstream pulling line off my reel like a kitty high on cat-nip unspooling TP.  After two blistering runs it was clear it was not going to come back upstream, so I walked it down to the bottom of the pool where Jim and I landed it. Cradling it in the water we both admired its immense girth, broad shoulders, and unmarred body (a good caption for Enzyte). It was a bright and healthy 33.5 inch wild steelhead, probably weighing in the 15-16 lb range. What a pleasure to see it swim strongly back to into the emerald depths.

Valentine's weekend steelhead

While the steelheading has been great, the company has been even better. Two weekends ago Lisa came over and last weekend my parents. It was so much fun sharing this area with people who I love. In addition, thanks to Dave Clark and the Kelly Creek Expo, a whole bunch of our steelhead friends all gathered in Clarkston. So much transpired over the past couple weeks that I am bit overwhelmed in attempting to blog about it. If you want an excellent run-down about Valentine’s day on the Prairie, link to Lisa’s blog and read her latest post.  As for “parent’s weekend,” it was a success with my parents meeting and seeing the best of Cottonwood. More on all of that later. I am busy brining fish and drinking pisco sours.

–AS

On-call in Americana

Posted in Uncategorized on February 5, 2010 by steelydoc

One of the constants in my life out here is the 2-way radio.  Even if not on call, most of our EMTs carry them because if one crew goes out we need to have back-up crews available. Therefore, regardless of the activity I will usually have my radio clipped to my clothes.  In surgery and colonoscopies it’s on my scrubs, ski patrol my vest, working out my shorts, cooking the counter or the bbq, and now ranching, the back pocket of my Levi’s. This ain’t no city radio in other words, it’s had fish slime, steer manure, flour, mop sauce, blood, and who knows what else on it. It definitely receives a regular cleaning as a result.

First pizza made from scratch, practicing my steelhead craddle.

On Wednesday, I started my newest on-call activity thanks to a friendly ranching family.  I met the rancher/cowboy who (I will refer to as Mr. Genuine, as in genuine leather…he’s one tough character) was an inpatient on one of my noc shifts at the hospital. When I had downtime I would talk to him about life out here and listen to some of his stories. A couple of weeks later I dropped by the farm to give them a steelhead and see how he was doing. In turn, he and his wife hooked me up with homemade sauerkraut, eggs, and some elk steaks. I expressed interest in joining the rural OB/GYN service on their farm (bovine division).  Any good rural doc ought to be able to yank a “Norman” out of some heifer, or so I think. And February is busy month for that sort thing.

My morning began like most, over snoozing, putting my contacts in, clipping my radio on, and heading out. I pulled into the farm at 6 AM. The couple was just heading for morning chores. Being a city kid, I didn’t have a pair of shit-kickers (cowboy boots) so I had to improvise. Hiking boots made a decent substitute. And so we headed up to the barns, Mr. Genuine driving his four-wheeler, and Mrs. Genuine opening the gates. Tilly and Willy (blue-healers? I am terrible with dog breeds) ran alongside and Daisy Mae (a rat terrier) barked from the house feeling left out. Our first stop was the milking barn. The night before they had 6 calves delivered from Yakima and it was feeding time. Walking through the frost thickened mud we made our way in the dark, dodging large amorphous shadows that broadcast a delightfully fragrant barnyard scent. Those same shadows began moving toward the milking barn.

Inside, the light welcomed us as did the grunts and bawling of hungry calves. The calves were in the back, separated in pens lined with straw. The pungent smell of urine soaked straw and damp earth is a remarkably comforting smell, an old world smell if you know what I mean. Looking around, I see a trough like contraption where the milk cows stick their heads through to feed on grain. There is also a hinged piece of wood that narrows the opening so the cow cannot retract its head until the milking is done. So Mr. Genuine guides the first heifer in and throws a strap over her back. She looked even bigger because of the low ceiling. From this strap he hangs the vacuum driven milker, and then hooks up her four swollen teats. The vacuum is powered by an old one-cylinder engine (nicknamed a one-lunger, which my Dad taught me), which taps out a rhythmic thump in the corner.

A milker like the one Mr. Genuine uses

Now I am not trying to glamorize this form of living or say it’s better than an urban life in New York, but it is certainly not a detached from nature. Farming and ranching are very visceral and engaging. All the smells, sounds, and sights captured within the amber circles of barn light stick with me like the poop between my boot lugs.  For me, it is a nostalgic reminder of my childhood experience growing up on a Vashon Island hobby farm. If anything, slapping cows on the haunch and helping ranchers is another confirmation that I am in the right place.  Pardon that digression, now back to the action. As her utter runs dry the suction cylinders drop off the teats and when completed Mr. Genuine heaves the heavy stainless steel milker over a 5-gallon bucket and pours the hot steaming milk into it.  Hmm, Captain Crunch anyone?  Nope, that milk is for the calves only.  From the 5-gallon bucket, the milk is poured into galvanized pails with a spout and large rubber nipple on it. This “Galva-mom” is hung on the side of each calf’s pen, where he or she eagerly attacks the rubber nipple.  This process is repeated till everyone gets their fill, except for Tobias (a persistent fat calf), who kept bawling and trying to steal the other calves milk, so much for being an angel.

The next set of chores requires dumping grain for the older horses, cows, bulls, and steers. Then we loaded some bales of hay on the four-wheeler for the feeding troughs in the field. After all the ruminants are fed, Mrs. Genuine and I head to the chicken coop. Mrs. Genuine has all these great sayings that she learned from her father, who homesteaded the property in the early 1900s.  As we pull the creaky door of the coop open, she says, “My farther always said that a singing chicken is a happy chicken.”  I replied, “What did you say,” because I couldn’t hear over the cacophony of noise. Imagine 100 happy chickens singing like Susan Boyle, it was another experience. Like in the OR, I am fascinated by the knowledge of experienced people doing what they understand. Mr. and Mrs. Genuine understand their animals and the natural processes that affect them. And for me, a quasi urbanite, it is interesting to encounter a totally different type of intelligence.

Fest '08 Chicken, refer to Lisa's Blog post on Deutschesfest for a thorough explanation

Once all the animals are fed, we return to the house and go about rustling up our own feed. Mrs. Genuine cooks us a true farmers breakfast (they eat what they raise) of fresh eggs, sausage, toast, and coffee. The rest of the day’s agenda is discussed and Mr. Genuine invites me to come back later to help him vaccinate a newborn calf. After breakfast I head home to change clothes. Then I wander down to the hospital in time to catch a scope. There are few places I can think of where a guy can help milk a cow and explore someone’s colon all in the same morning. I guess I am just that lucky.

The radio remains silent, so back to farm I head. Putting on my mud/manure plastered boots, Mr. Genuine and I hop onto the four-wheeler bound for the field. Tilly jumps on as well but there is not enough room for all of us, so he’s gonna have to walk. Riding out there on the “short horse” we search for the calf. Finally we locate mom and calf over by the fence. Mom is a black and baby is brown. Regardless, we have 3 shots to deliver, an oral antibiotic, and iodine for its umbilicus. In human c-sections, mom is usually totally out or at least numb from the waist down so the doctors can do their thing, but this mom is very awake and not liking our intrusion.  She scuffs her hoof and grunts deeply.  After chasing them a short distance on the four-wheeler, Mr. Genuine jumps off and tackles the calf. He yells for me to grab the goods. I run over a little unsure of how to help. Holding the back hooves I give Mr. Genuine the stuff for the front end, and he tells me to inject the other two in the back end. Injections in humans are so much easier, at least they understand your trying to help them. Besides pushing a 14 gauge needle through a calf’s skin takes some elbow grease. Yet, we git-r-done and get out.

As you can probably infer from my on-call activities, most days it’s fairly quiet. In fact, making dinner, tying flies, and now wrangling cattle, is inversely related to people getting sick and injured.  The days when I barely have time to eat is not a good day to be on the highway or the farm. That’s how it is in a small town. We have days where we are running but for the last week or so it has surprisingly mellow. Now that I write that, the floodgates of stupidity or just bad luck will swing open and we will get called.

Tuesday's 3 fish fly pattern

Keep your boots well oiled,

–AS

Going “shopping”

Posted in Uncategorized on February 4, 2010 by steelydoc

Yesterday, I left the Prairie for the big city to do some shopping. As mentioned before, I never waste a day when I am not on call. So I decided to drive down to Lewiston and check some errands off my list. The first stop was the river, naturally.  I was going to hit the fly shop up first but my steelhead intuition got the best of me. A good thing I listened because I broke my Clearwater river skunk in a big way.

A hard fighting B-run hen, 33"x16"

Fish porn.

Believe it or not, I still don’t, this was the second of three fish landed that morning. Some days I just feel like I know what I am doing. That feeling is a fleeting one at best.  For every day like yesterday, I have 10 that end in lost flies, no fish, not even a fishy grab, wet and muddy clothes, and an ecchmyotic (bruised) ego. Did I mention the sun was out and it was 65 degrees on the river. Pure heaven. On my 3rd cast I hooked the first fish, a slender 28″ hen.  She was laying in a seem created by a submerged boulder. Farther down the run, about 30 casts later, I hooked bertha about mid river.  Hooking and landing a steelhead with a long cast is always a rush. I felt the initial tug, followed by her tail breaking the surface. The fight was on. She ran up stream (every angler’s nightmare), and I madly reeled to pick up the line and maintain tension. Putting a good amount of side pressure on, I coaxed her my way. I always prepare for the second run, and it came. Off she went down river, reel screaming the rod bent like Mr. Toyoda bowing to the board and apologizing for his company’s apocalyptic screw up.  She stopped, exhausted, and I muscled her to shore. Being a hatchery fish, and with my steelhead debt growing (I give some of local Cottonwood farmers steelhead in good faith and for treats like pickles or sauerkraut), I intended to keep her. Near the bank she went into a death roll and broke my line, luckily for the farmers I tailed  her and dispatched her quickly.  After marking that fish on my card and taking a few pictures, I headed back into the current. At this point life was too good to not do so. Sure enough, I hooked another fish and that one was a smaller wild fish so it was released promptly and thanked for the encounter. I am truly enchanted by these fish and even just watching one holding in the current is enough to entertain me for hours. This pursuit should keep me out of trouble and occupied for life. It’s nearly as addicting as meth but with fewer side-effects. Besides, I don’t think Lisa would appreciate it if my teeth rotted out, so being a steelhead bum is definitely a step above.

A quick snapshot of the 28" fish.

The remainder of the day was spent shopping at Costco, visiting my uncle (who graciously let me store the fish in his freezer), getting a hair cut, and stopping by the fly-shop to brag about my steelhead bonanza (make hay while the sun shines, no?).  Walking into the shop I ran into my fishing friend and steelhead guru Dave Clark. He was down there talking to owner about the upcoming Kelly Creek Flycasters Expo. I had called Dave earlier to see if he wanted to join me on the river but he wasn’t home. Anyway, I had told him about my success and he was relaying it to the shop owner Mark. When he saw me walk in, he quickly added that he did not specify WHERE they were caught. Somewhere in that 67 mile or so section of river three steelhead were hooked. That is how we roll, most of the time. After all, a lot of what I know about the area and the steelhead who occupy it, I learned from Dave. As you can imagine, the fly-fishing world is about as in-bred as a Bedouin tribe, if we live long enough eventually everybody meets.

To all the hens and bucks we love so much,

–AS

Anatomy and Physiology of a Steelhead Fisherman

Posted in Uncategorized on January 23, 2010 by steelydoc

January 15, 2010

Someday I would like to deliver a didactic presentation on a unique subsection of the general fishing population, namely Steelhead Fly Fisherman. What makes these strange men and women leave a perfectly warm house to wade into frigid waters, brace against strong winds and currents, even risk life to swing or a drift a fly in search of an elusive quarry. The possible explanations are numerous and certainly warrant further dissection (upcoming posts will undoubtedly pick, poke, and praud at them).  However, I can say, the risk and reward relationship of steelheading is comparable to gambling, basically a variable reward. We never know which cast or hand will be the winner, so our logic then tells us not to stop. A very good explanation for why my brother and I were always late to dinner when fishing on the Methow river.  It also explains why I fished all day yesterday in gale force winds on River Y even though my odds for success were slimmer than a mole hair. Nonetheless it was restorative to hear the swoosh of running line sing through my rod guides on a direct flight to mid-river.

Forming a D-loop with a two-handed spey rod

A cast to a far steelhead lie

A tribute to my obssesion for fishing, I had been guarding this past Friday for two weeks. It was the only day where I was  neither on-call as an EMT, doing ski-patrol, or working on the nursing floor. In an ideal world, the river would be less than 10 minutes from town so I could fish with my uniform beneath my waders. So when I have a day exempt of all constraints I ink it in as a fishing day. Unfortunately the wind decided to join me. It was brutal on the river, white-caps, swirling gusts, and blowing sand.  Did I mention that I love this stuff (remember the second sentence). Regardless, bad weather is better braved with company. At a favorite spot I met Decoy for lunch.  She  is an emaciated looking yellow lab greyhound mix whose owner is often gone.  So I shared some beef jerky with her and let her do my dishes, which she happily obliged.  Despite getting completely skunked on the river, the day was a restorative break. I will fish in any conditions short of a forest fire or tsunami, and thus it fit my needs. Besides, I won’t want to bail on a lunch date.

A Double Date in Idaho

Decoy doing the dishes

Steelheading, more on that later.

–AS

Rural Idaho Weddings

Posted in Uncategorized on January 22, 2010 by steelydoc

Before leaving town for Christmas, I learned that the younger daughter of my host family got engaged to a fellow Cottonwood resident. Congratulations Vanessa and Randall! On the practical front, this news has prompted a number of intriguing conversations around the house and my own realization of how different weddings are out here.  Take the subject of wedding crashing, to me a very rare occurrence in the big city.  Here it is expected. In fact, there is a generally accepted fudge factor that includes for roving high school students and others who while not invited feel justified in doing their part to dry the kegs and eat the leftovers.  The “ticket” with wedding crashing on the Prairie is that you at least need to know somebody who has been invited. And in a town like Cottonwood, pop < 1000, that ain’t too hard.

Around here there are numerous special places to tie the knot.  We have the Salmon River (one of longest undamed rivers in the lower 48), Hell’s Canyon (the deepest canyon in the country), the Frank Church and Gospel Hump wilderness, the Selway and Bitteroot river areas, but many just elect to have it in Green Creek (or Crick as locals call it).  It sounds pastoral and scenic, but actually it is a couple of houses and a huge barn like building wedged between wheat fields.  The town of Green Creek, is one of those places best experienced driving well over 40 and blasting dueling banjos on the car stereo.  I heard from a local source that the Green Creek hall was the site of a Guinness World Record. Supposedly one lucky couple, their families, friends, and uninvited “crashers” set the “Most Kegs Drunk at a Wedding” record, although google has yet to confirm it.  I don’t doubt it however.

Everybody does their share in Green Creek.

Green Creek is also a location for local community fundraisers that happen this time of year. Crab feeds to be exact. I believe that the name of the event is a bit of a misnomer.  A more accurate description would be a ragging beer brawl with some poop eating crustaceans along for the ride. I have not witnessed this in person so I am only citing circumstantial evidence and second hand accounts. I am holding out for the Kamiah (another town about 3/4  hour drive unless you are one of the doctors late for clinic there, they make it 25 min while eating a half frozen hot pocket…ok another story for later) crab feed, I guess there is a talent show at that one.  I bet a story or two could be roped outta that one. My only concern about a crab feed 400 miles from the coast is who is in charge of quality control. I would feel safer about attending a sausage and kraut fest or an Elk feed rather than a most delicate seafood that can make an indelicate stink.

Well howdy, I have come to end of my patience with today’s blog. I will leave you with some photos to ponder from today’s themed ingredient, “Redneck.”

Kitty Carrier

Ring the Doe.

Somebody got payed for this one, I hope.

I know a redneck when I see one.

Th, th, th, th, That’s All Folks!

–AS

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